Brown Shavers are a highly popular and well-regarded hybrid chicken breed, primarily known for their exceptional egg-laying abilities. They are a common choice for both backyard chicken keepers and commercial egg producers due to their efficiency and reliable performance.
Here’s a summary of key characteristics of Brown Shavers:
- Hybrid Breed: Brown Shavers are a crossbreed, developed by crossing Rhode Island Reds, Rhode Island Whites, and other breeds. This hybridization was specifically aimed at maximizing egg production.
- Prolific Egg Layers: They are renowned for laying a large volume of high-quality brown eggs, often producing around 280-350 large brown eggs per year. They start laying relatively early, sometimes as early as 18-20 weeks of age, and can lay consistently even in winter.
- Hardy and Adaptable: Brown Shavers are generally robust and can adapt well to various climates and housing conditions, whether free-range or confined.
- Temperament: They are typically described as having a docile and friendly disposition, making them suitable for families and as pets. While personalities can vary, many owners find them pleasant and calm.
- Feed Efficiency: They are efficient converters of feed into eggs, meaning they require a relatively low feed intake for their high egg output, making them economical to raise.
- Lifespan: Brown Shavers can live for 6 to 8 years, though their peak egg production usually occurs within their first two years. Egg production tends to decrease significantly after the first year.
- Appearance: As their name suggests, they typically have brown feathers, which can range from light to dark shades.
In summary, if you’re looking for a chicken breed that will consistently provide a good supply of brown eggs and is generally easy to care for, the Brown Shaver is an excellent choice.
Red mites.
Red mites (Dermanyssus gallinae), also known as poultry red mites, chicken mites, or roost mites, are tiny, blood-sucking ectoparasites that can be a major problem for chicken keepers, particularly in New Zealand’s climate. They are notorious for being difficult to eradicate due to their lifecycle and habits.
Here’s a breakdown of what you need to know about red mites:
What are Red Mites?
- Blood-suckers: They feed on the blood of chickens and other birds, primarily at night.
- Hiding in the Coop: Unlike some other mites, red mites don’t live on the chickens themselves all the time. During the day, they hide in cracks, crevices, and other dark spots within the chicken coop, including roosts, nest boxes, and even in the litter. They become reddish-brown after a blood meal; otherwise, they are grayish-white.
- Rapid Reproduction: They have a very fast life cycle, completing a generation in as little as 7-10 days under optimal conditions. A female can lay around 30 eggs in her lifetime. This rapid reproduction makes infestations quickly get out of hand.
- Survivors: Red mites are incredibly resilient and can survive for up to 9 months in an empty coop without a blood meal.
Symptoms of a Red Mite Infestation:
- Changes in Chicken Behavior:
- Restlessness and Irritation: Chickens may be restless, agitated, and scratch excessively, especially at night.
- Reluctance to Roost/Use Nest Boxes: Birds may avoid using perches or nest boxes if they are heavily infested, seeking alternative, mite-free sleeping spots.
- Feather Pecking/Loss: Increased preening, head scratching, and gentle feather pecking due to skin irritation. Severe infestations can lead to feather loss.
- Lethargy and Huddling: Chickens may appear tired, withdrawn, or huddle together.
- Physical Symptoms on Chickens:
- Pale Comb and Wattles: This is a sign of anemia, which can be severe in heavily infested birds as they can lose a significant amount of blood.
- Skin Irritation: Redness or bite marks on the skin, especially around the hock joint (above the scales on the legs where feathers begin), breast, or thigh.
- Coop-Related Signs:
- Visible Mites: You might see tiny, reddish-brown or grayish-white specks crawling in cracks and crevices, particularly when you dismantle the coop for cleaning or examine it with a flashlight at night (5-11 hours after darkness). They often congregate in clusters.
- Dust and Debris: Accumulations of mite eggs, feces, and shed skins may appear as a fine, grayish-red dust in cracks.
- Blood Spots on Eggs: While less common, blood spots on eggs can sometimes indicate mites that have engorged themselves and dropped off near the cloaca.
- Reduced Productivity:
- Decreased Egg Production: Hens will often stop or significantly reduce their egg laying due to stress, discomfort, and blood loss.
- Weight Loss/Poor Condition: Chickens can lose condition and become emaciated in severe cases.
- Death: In very severe infestations, particularly in young or already compromised birds, anemia can lead to death.
Life Cycle of a Red Mite:
The life cycle is rapid and goes through several stages:
- Egg: Laid in cracks and crevices in the coop.
- Larva: Hatches from the egg (1-2 days), does not feed.
- Protonymph: Larva molts into a protonymph (1-2 days), takes a blood meal.
- Deutonymph: Protonymph molts into a deutonymph (1-2 days), takes a blood meal.
- Adult: Deutonymph molts into an adult (2-3 days). Adults take blood meals and female adults lay eggs.
The entire cycle can be completed in as little as 7-10 days, allowing for rapid population growth.
Treatment and Prevention:
Effective red mite control requires a multi-pronged approach targeting both the chickens and their environment.
1. Coop Treatment (Crucial!): Since mites live in the coop, this is paramount.
- Thorough Cleaning:
- Remove all bedding, litter, and droppings. Dispose of them far away from the coop.
- Remove all removable items (perches, nest boxes, feeders).
- Brush or vacuum away dust, cobwebs, and debris from all surfaces.
- Power wash or scrub the entire coop, getting into every nook, cranny, and joint. Detergent can help.
- Allow the coop to dry completely.
- Apply Mite-Specific Products:
- Insecticidal Sprays: Products like Nettex Total Mite Kill Spray (available in NZ), permethrin-based sprays, or others specifically designed for poultry mites are effective. Spray all surfaces, paying extra attention to cracks, crevices, joints, and the undersides of perches and nest boxes. Repeat as per product instructions, often at intervals that break the mite life cycle (e.g., weekly or every few days initially).
- Diatomaceous Earth (DE): Food-grade DE works by abrading the mite’s waxy outer layer, causing dehydration and death. Dust it liberally in the coop, especially in hiding spots. It can also be added to dust bath areas. Always wear a mask when applying DE to avoid inhaling the fine powder.
- Other options: Some products like “Banshee’s certified organic spray” or “Miss Muffet’s Revenge by Wet and Forget” are mentioned for coop surfaces in NZ.
- Consider specialized products: Some vets in NZ offer products like Exzolt, a systemic treatment given in drinking water, which is highly effective and has no egg withholding period, though it’s often available in commercial sizes.
- Minimize Hiding Places: Smooth surfaces like plastic or galvanised iron are easier to clean and keep mite-free than rough wood or tongue-and-groove construction. If you have a wooden coop, consider sealing cracks and crevices where mites hide.
2. Chicken Treatment (If Mites are Present on Birds):
- Dusting Powders: Products like Appleton’s De-Mite Powder or other poultry-safe dusting powders can be applied directly to the chickens, focusing on areas like under the wings, around the vent, and on the breast. These often contain permethrin or natural ingredients like DE.
- Veterinary Consultation: For severe infestations or if you’re unsure, consult your local vet (e.g., Rangiora Vet Centre or Vet Services Hawke’s Bay in NZ). They can advise on the most appropriate and effective treatments, including prescription options like Exzolt which work systemically.
3. Prevention is Key:
- Regular Cleaning: A clean coop is your best defense. Regular weekly or bi-weekly cleaning helps prevent mite populations from building up.
- Dust Bathing: Ensure your chickens have access to a dust bath area. Adding wood ash or food-grade diatomaceous earth to their dust bath can help them self-treat.
- Quarantine New Birds: Always quarantine new chickens for a few weeks before introducing them to your flock to ensure they aren’t bringing in mites or other diseases.
- Monitor Wild Birds: While difficult to control entirely, wild birds can introduce mites. Try to keep wild birds from nesting in or around your coop.
- Inspect Regularly:
- Nighttime Checks: Use a flashlight to check perches and chickens themselves 5-11 hours after dark. Look for mites crawling on the birds or congregating on the underside of perches.
- White Towel Test: Place a white piece of towelling in the corner of the coop or under a perch overnight. If it has reddish-brown spots in the morning, it’s a strong indicator of mites.
- Avoid certain bedding: Some sources suggest avoiding straw, hay, or newspaper as bedding, as they can harbour mites and create damp conditions that mites love. Shredded hemp bedding is often recommended as a better alternative.
Red mites are persistent, but with consistent effort and a good management plan, you can keep them under control and ensure your chickens remain healthy and productive.